The Christmas Post

When I was a young boy, Christmas at my house wasn't that special.  I grew up in a Jewish household full of dysfunction and not welcoming to outsiders.



[caption id="attachment_829" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Blow-up Christmas Decorations, New Jersey[/caption]

Sure, I enjoyed the lights and the break from school, but I never fully understood the meaning of the holiday.  To me it was just about kitschy yard decorations and lots of gifts for other kids.   

[caption id="attachment_807" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Preparing For Nutcracker, The Academy Of Music[/caption]

I think that having a child gave me an opportunity to experience the true meaning of Christmas.  It really is about magic, wonder, great food, and time with loved ones.  I learned to embrace Santa and the joy that believing in him brings to my daughter.

[caption id="attachment_806" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Watching The Nutcracker From The Wings[/caption]

Her passion is ballet and she's quite good at it.  For the past three years she's been a performer in Pennsylvania Ballet's annual Nutcracker production.  This year she has a lead role. It's become an essential part of our Christmas tradition, and I feel honored and proud that it has become part of our holiday celebration. By the end of this season I'll have seen it 35 times and yes, each performance is as exciting as the last.

[caption id="attachment_805" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Hoops Watching Mother Ginger[/caption]

Of course, Christmas dinners at my house give me an excuse to go crazy shopping for food and coffee at Dibruno Brothers, pastries at Isgro's, and the centerpiece of our dinner, Christmas ham.

[caption id="attachment_809" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Dibruno Bros., Italian Market[/caption]

My 180 degree transformation is the best Christmas gift of all.  Sure I love surprises under the tree just like the next guy, but the real meaning of the holiday is much deeper than that.  So when you wake up Christmas morning, make yourself a fabulous cup of coffee and take time to appreciate the special people in your life--no matter your religious beliefs.

A special thanks to Caffe Luxxe, who sent me a gift of single origin Direct Trade Guatemalan El Tambor.  I can't wait to try it Christmas morning!

12/27 Bonus Photograph, The Academy Of Music, the oldest opera house in the US after a Nutcracker Performance

[caption id="attachment_836" align="aligncenter" width="560"] The Academy Of Music, Philadelphia built in 1857[/caption]

Links

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Caffe Luxxe

Related articles

• Artsy time at Caffe Luxxe (sierracoop.wordpress.com)

Good'n Plenty

For decades Passyunk Avenue has been the main artery in the heart of South Philadelphia.  The demographic has historically been White and old school Italian with Geno's and Pat's Steaks at the epicenter.  Not very welcoming to outsiders, it's a tight-knit, conservative populace and Passyunk is their shopping mecca ('Speak English' signs allowed at Philly shop)...but for the past ten years the times have been changing.

Cheap real estate and close proximity to Center City (and the creation of Citizens Alliance for Better Neighborhoods) has attracted a new class of citizens around the neighborhood.  Young and mostly single, it's a much more diverse and liberal crowd who prefer working or hanging out in coffee shops and hip clothing stores to shopping for First Communion dresses. (Changing City: Passyunk Ave.)

Barista Edward prepares a shot of Rival Brothers Whistle & Cuss

In 2011, Plenty opened along the Avenue.  Initially it was a boutique deli and prepared food shop.  The concept didn't thrive and brothers Damon and Anthony Mascieri took over ownership about a year later.  After extensive remodeling, Plenty became a coffeehouse / cafe and a popular destination.  Locally roasted coffee and sourced food is the theme.  House brew is Rival Brothers and they also feature ReAnimator and La Colombe.  Anthony plans on offering other local roasters as guests on his brew bar.  I love the idea of a cafe that works exclusively with local roasters.  The food reflects Anthony's global travel experiences, featuring selections such as a beef-chorizo meatball sandwich, an homage to Spain and the "Seoul" short-rib, a Korean offering.

Plenty Cafe, Rittenhouse

In the beginning of December, the Mascieris opened their second cafe near Rittenhouse Square in what was a former jewlery store.  The building is listed on the Register of Historic Places and careful attention was paid to make sure the building's integrity was kept intact.  There's reclaimed wood throughout.  It's a warm space thats beautifully designed with limited bi-level seating.  The coffee and food selections are the same at both cafes.

View from above, Plenty Cafe, Rittenhouse

 

In addition to the classic coffee offerings, Anthony also put together a small specialty drink section that is international in scope.  I tried the San Telmo made with espresso, steamed milk, dulce de leche and a sprinkling of salt on top.  It was really lovely, a nice contrast of flavors, something more akin to a dessert drink.

My hope is that the coffee roaster selections rotate often.  I was told that they were going to offer some roasts from Square One in Lancaster, PA in a few weeks, a roaster I've heard about but haven't tried and a reason why Plenty will be my constant coffee destination.

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Plenty Coffee

Rival Brothers Coffee Roasters

La Colombe Coffee Roasters

ReAnimator Coffee Roasters

Coffee At The Benjamin Franklin House

For years the area around The Benjamin Franklin House was a bit of a coffee wasteland.... not any more.  Now 834 Chestnut, built in 1925 is home to two quality coffee destinations: Town Hall Coffee and DiBruno Brothers.

Town Hall Coffee

 Tim Noble pulls a shot at Town Hall Coffee

When I walked into his shop, Tim Noble was well into his second 12 hour shift grinding beans.  Such is the life of the owner of two of the best coffeehouses in Philadelphia.  For the last two years if you were anywhere in Philadelphia's Main Line, Bala Cynwyd was the only place you could get a well crafted shot of a rotating selection of some of the best micro-roasters in the country.  When the owners of the Benjamin Franklin House on Chestnut Street asked Noble to consider opening his second location in their historic building, he leapt at the chance.

Window seating, Town Hall Coffee

On the day I visited, a customer in front of me asked when Novo's beans would be back as their guest roaster.  The question brought a smile to my face.  Just a few years ago, I never would have dreamed that a Philadelphian would have asked such a question.  If you wanted "specialty coffee" La Colombe was pretty much the only game in town.  Tim's constantly rotating selection of both local and the best microroasters from around the US has helped to educate Philly's java geeks to the rarefied world of single origin small production coffee.  Tim pulled for me a "God shot" of ReAnimator, a local roaster that's killing it with consistent brilliantly roasted selections.  About 80% of Tim's business is take-away but it's all prepared to order on Tim's pour-over bar.  There are also a few comfortable seats for those who want to relax and experience one of Philly's finest coffee destinations.

DiBruno Brothers

 Mayor Frank Rizzo Watches Over The Italian Market

A few posts ago I reviewed Mario Batali's Eataly food market  in New York City's Flatiron District. I came away from the experience quite underwhelmed (Great and Mediocre Coffee In NYC).  Terrible coffee, high prices and too much sponsored product placement made me wish I was shopping in Philly's Italian Market, the oldest outdoor market in The United States.  Up and down 9th Street some of the best Italian shops anywhere offer their wares.  Some of my favorites include Talluto's for Pasta, Grassia’s Italian Market Spice Company, Fante’s Kitchen Wares Shop, Isgro Pastries, and Fiorella Brothers Sausage.

DiBruno Bros. 9th Street

One of the Italian Market's oldest institutions and a must visit for any foodie is the orignal DiBruno Brothers.  Crammed within their tiny shop are some of the finest cheese selections in the city, aged balsamic vinegar, vats filled with marinated artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies, olives and along with other artisan products.

 DiBruno Bros. at The Benjamin Franklin House

At about 4,500 square feet, DiBruno Bros. Benjamin Franklin House is spacious and well stocked, catering to a more upscale clientele.  There's much more of a takeout / quick and easy meal feel to the offerings, a nod to the 400 residences within the building.

Pastries with your coffee?

There's also a cafe area for coffee to go.  Initally DiBruno's brewed Illy as their house.  Back in August, Coffee Director Ian Peacock launched a new coffee program.  Counter Culture has replaced Illy and each DiBruno Bros. barista spends time training at Counter Culture's Philly training lab.  The result is a house coffee made with finesse.  Walk into any of their four locations and take home beans from local and national micro-roasters.

Links

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

DiBruno Brothers

Town Hall Coffee

Philadelphia Italian Market

Counter Culture

ReAnimator Coffee Roasters

Related articles

• Market Tour: Di Bruno Bros., Philadelphia (seriouseats.com)

Autumn Coffee

All Summer I love sitting outdoors watching passerby while sipping a morning or afternoon latte.  With Winter fast approaching, I'm forced inside to keep warm.  The temperature drops and the season changes.  I think what redeems this time of year are the colors…. burnt oranges, reds,  and yellows dominate the landscape.  There's beauty even as plants die, leaves fall, and the days grow shorter.  This week Fall colors and warm cups of coffee are my inspiration.

Indian Summer Morning With One Villate Coffee At Agiato

Autumn Lunch at Lacroix

Last Of The Sunflowers and a Four Barrel latte, at Tela's

A Cup Of Passion House Coffee at Nook

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

The Halloween Post: Something Wicked This Way Comes, Anastacia's Antiques

Anastacia's is a unique and creepy antique store in Philadelphia.  Around every corner sit silent incongruous tableaus.  I couldn't help thinking that throughout the store something was amiss.... and that feeling gave me a sense of dread.  It was like something out of a Ray Bradbury short story.  Sounds a bit too melodramatic?  Take a look at the photographs and tell me what you think.

"The pictures were moving, each in its turn, each for a brief minute or two. There in the moonlight, with the tiny tinkling thoughts and the distant sea voices, it seemed, each little drama was enacted. Whether it took an hour or three hours for the dramas to finish, it would be hard to say. I only know that I lay fascinated and did not move while the stars wheeled in the sky.

Eighteen Illustrations, tighten tales. I counted them one by one."

Ray Bradbury, The Illustrated Man

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

iPhone Photography

Since it's inception, all of the photographs on this blog have been taken by me on an iPhone. This week instead of writing about coffee, let's have a cup and enjoy some recent photographs.  I often use different panorama apps to add perspective and various post photography apps such as Snapseed for enhancements.  Later I'll fine tune images in Lightroom after downloading them to my computer.

 Aquarium Diver

 A warm Summer night

 Gravitron

Ceiling, The Bellevue-Stratford, Philadelphia (opened 1904)

 The Academy Of Music, Philadelphia, 1857 Renaissance architecture

Chestnut Street, Philadelphia

A weeded lot

 Sunflower

 Waiting for a table, Chinatown, Philadelphia

Maneki-neko (Japanese lucky cat), Chinatown, Philadelphia

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Green Street: The Garagiste Roastery

 Green Street Coffee[

Chris Molieri always wanted to do good in the world.  After graduating from Temple University with a finance degree,  Chris went to work in Portland for a community development financial institution, or CDFI, a nonprofit devoted to helping entrepreneurs access capital.  It was there that he discovered the world of micro-roasting.   After returning to his home town, Chris  and his brother Tom decided to secure their own $10,000 loan from a CDFI and Green Street got its start.

The other day I found myself at their roasting facility in the Point Breeze section of South Philly. Down a side street I went following the sound of Jack White blasting out of their stereo.

The space is tiny.  Theres an old La Marzacco as soon as you walk in, and their small Ambex roaster takes up the center with coffee beans waiting to be roasted and bagged.  It reminds me of a Bordeaux Garagiste, there's bearly enough room for Chris and roaster John Jenson to work. Production is about 500-700 pounds per week, tiny compared to say La Colombe who roasts around 45,000 pounds weekly.  But what they produce is remarkable given how new they are to the business.  Green Street got its start in May 2011.  Chris's approach seems "balls to the wall" as he works to grow the business and, at the same time, make a difference in the lives of coffee farmers.

 Left: Chris Molieri examining his beans Right: Chris and Roaster John Jenson

Sustainability is a crucial component to Green Street's business plan.  In addition to working with Direct Trade importers such as Coffee Shrub, the Molieri brothers are establishing their own Direct Trade relationships.  They just recently returned from a sourcing trip in Nicaragua and plan on expanding their farm connections.

Jenson described their roasting style as in between the really light "first crack" profile that's become de rigueur amongst many third wave coffee specialists and the dark roast that can strip  coffee beans of its personality.  It's a really nice transitional approach that balances flavor with customer expectations.

Philadelphia's coffee scene is exploding with new coffee entrepreneurs.  Between the great shops and the influx of new roasters, Philly has become one of the leading caffeine destinations in the US.  Although small in size, Green Street is quickly becoming a major player in this coffee renaissance.

Cupping various lots

 

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Green Street Coffee Roasters http://greenstreetcoffee.com

The Coffee MacGyver

La Colombe, City Hall, Philadelphia

Is Todd Charmichael for real?  In the TV show "Dangerous Grounds", Charmichael takes a death-defying trip 1000 feet off the ground on a Bolivian farmer's zip-line, uses his wits and available materials to perform a makeshift repair on a truck stuck in the middle of the jungle and avoids one near death experience after another.  When I first saw these episodes I thought "is this for real... or is he haming it up for Hollywood (the nickname he calls his cameraman)?  Is there really a coffee guy out there this resourceful and crazy?"  Sprudge.com even did a drinking game (click to play) for viewers to play while following Todd's exploits.  A few days ago I got to poke around La Colombe's "Batcave" in Port Richmond, Philadelphia where their coffee is roasted.  I came away believing that yes, Todd is as crazy and intense as he seems but also whip smart, methodical and meticulous.  Indeed little seems to be left to chance.

La Colombe's Roasting Floor 

La Colombe's roastery takes up over half of the warehouse space.  It's high-end coffee on a large-scale.  Between 45,000 and 48,000 pounds are roasted every week.  Head Roaster Chris Miller showed me around and it's an impressive operation.  But Todd and his partner Jean Philippe Iberti (JP) haven't stopped there and this is where it really gets interesting.  On the other side of a wall there's other projects that are up and running or in the works.

Just over a year ago, Carmichael introduced La Colombe "Pure Black", a cold pressed coffee Steeped for 16 hours in stainless steel wine tanks, pressed and filtered twice.  How did Todd come up with the recipe?  Like most of his projects, it started in his head at home.  After researching online, he purchased some equipment over the internet and started experimenting.  "I finally had to scale up after my wife had enough at home," Todd told me.  After buying the tanks and setting up his own bottling line, Todd hired an expert in pasteurization to assist with shelf life and quality control.  Now in full production, Pure Black is considered one of the best.

Left: Rum production & experimentation

Right: La Colombe Rum in barrels

Next, Carmichael started pursuing another passion, rum.  When I visited, the still he installed looked like a scene from Breaking Bad.  But looks are deceiving.  While everything is small-scale as he refines the recipe which involves filtering the spirit through coffee, a full-blown distillery will be incorporated into the new Fishtown warehouse slated to open in early 2014.  Expect to see his rum in Pennsylvania state stores around that time as well.  This huge 16,000 square foot space will contain a cafe, roastery for La Colombe's single origin program, cupping room, a sixty-meter German still, bread making by JP and the former bread chef at Steven Starr's Parc and more.

La Colombe Rum

I got a chance to taste an early version and it was really good.  It tastes more like a bourbon than a rum with a hint of coffee on the palate.

Cupping Pre-Auction Lots

After the warehouse tour, I participated in a cupping of Rwandan beans with 12 other coffee professionals.  This was a pre-auction tasting of 15 lots that was sold on 10/8.  They represented the best lots grown in Rwanda as scored by the Cup of Excellence the most prestigious award given to a fine quality coffee. Todd had invited other coffee roasters such as Elixr and Rival Brothers and told the crowd how important it was to him that Philly's coffee community work together to improve its caffeinated culture.  It was interesting to watch Todd at work as he really knows coffee much like a Master Sommolier knows his wine.  I noticed that he mentioned that the Japanese buyers at these auctions were problematic and asked why.  He replied that they have very sophisticated palates but, since their coffee culture is so new, they have no reference as to how much they should pay for the best beans.  Once they get interested in a lot the prices paid can get outrageously high.  The trick, he told me, is to identify great lots that perhaps will fly under their radar.

So what's the verdict?  Is Todd Charmichael for real?  Look, the guy is an adrenaline junky and loves pushing himself to the limits of human endurance.  Heres a guy who set the record for the fastest solo journey to the South Pole & attempted to become the first person to trek across Death Valley alone.  This approach to life has served him well in the coffee business.  Much like most coffee professionals I've met, Todd's a geek and gets really excited about the chemistry and process whether it's the perfect brew, or a rum that'll knock your socks off.  His public persona might make you think he flies by the seat of his pants and takes a lot of risks but he is much more meticulous and calculating than that and it's a major part of the secret to his success.

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

La Colombe: http://www.lacolombe.com

Cup of Excellence: http://www.allianceforcoffeeexcellence.org/en/

Sprudge: http://sprudge.com

Related articles

• La Colombe treks north to Fishtown (bizjournals.com)

Coffee and Photography

Last week I showed slices of city life in Philadelphia I found intriguing but didn't fit in a longer blog post.  This week I feature Mud Coffee and Think Coffee in New York, and briefly have a cup of La Colombe with the really interesting Luciano Begnoni, Owner of Santa Sophia Winery located in Piedmont.

[caption id="attachment_597" align="aligncenter" width="560"] New York From Williamsburg[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_596" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Mud Coffee, NYC[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_609" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Think Coffee[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_602" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Luciano Begnoni, Owner, Santa Sophia Winery Enjoying A Cup Of La Colombe[/caption]

Bonus Photograph, 10/2/13

Earlier today I had lunch at XIX, located at the top of the beautiful Bellevue in Philadelphia.  The Bellevue-Stratford was built in 1904 in the French Renaissance style.  As I looked above me, I captured this image.

[caption id="attachment_632" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Ceiling atop the Bellevue, Philadelphia[/caption]

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Mud Coffee: http://www.onmud.com

Think Coffee: http://thinkcoffeenyc.com

La Colombe Coffee: http://www.lacolombe.com

Santa Sophia Winery: http://www.santasofia.com/index.php/en/