Great & Mediocre Coffee In NYC

Doughnut Plant

[caption id="attachment_435" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Doughnut Plant[/caption]

In Chris Rock's stand-up act, he calls Crispy Creme doughnuts "Kracky Kreme". If only he'd try Doughnut Plant's creations he would sing a different tune. These are the real deal. Addictive? You bet, when I wasn't there I thought about the next day when I'd return to taste another flavor. I tried Peach, Vanilla Bean and Coconut Lime Yeasts, Creme Brulee and Peaches & Cream filled Doughseeds. These remarkable creations are simply the best doughnuts I've ever tasted. My only regret? They didn't have the Rose Petal Doughseed on either day I visited. Coffee was also great, made by Kobrick, a local roaster that's been around since 1920.

[caption id="attachment_436" align="aligncenter" width="392"] Magic In A Doughnut Plant Box[/caption]

I Am Coffee

[caption id="attachment_503" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Interior, I Am Coffee[/caption]

If you were standing in the middle of St Mark's Place, you'd never guess that one of the city's best coffee shops is just a few steps away. Look carefully. Right alongside the Ramen noodle joints and next door to Sing Sing Karaoke Lounge is a coffee destination unlike any other, I Am Coffee. Giovanni Finotto and Caterina Musajo hail from Crema, Italy and they concoct some of the most amazing coffee "cocktails" (sans alcohol).

[caption id="attachment_460" align="aligncenter" width="392"] Preparing My Shakerato[/caption]

Take the Shakerato that I ordered. Cateriana vigorously froths the drink in a cocktail shaker and serves it in a martini glass. This is not "Third Wave" but a different way of presenting coffee. There's twists on caffè freddo, Macchiato, and drinks of the day with fresh Ginger and other fabulous ingredients. The roast is from Bologna’s Manuel Terzi and is that darker Italian style. Sure there's the traditional drip and pour-over but the magical concoctions are what it's all about.

[caption id="attachment_459" align="aligncenter" width="448"] The Shakerato[/caption]

A few weeks ago I stated that Parlor Coffee in Williamsburg may be the smallest coffee shop in the city. I Am Coffee is even smaller. Three customers is a crowd at this bar. Even though I'm not a Catholic, when approaching Cateriana with my order, I felt like I was entering a very intimate setting.... almost like a confessional. It's a one-on-one experience that every coffee lover should experience.

Eataly

[caption id="attachment_502" align="aligncenter" width="560"] The Flatiron Building[/caption]

The Flatiron Building is one of my favorites in NYC. But I'm sorry to say that not all things about the city is remarkable when it relates to coffee. Eataly by Mario Batalli just a stone's throw from this marvelous building is one of those unfortunate missteps.

[caption id="attachment_461" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Coffee At Eataly[/caption]

Eataly is an Italian food market chain that started in Turin and is now in 11 locations in Italy and 6 additional venues in the United States and Japan.  The New York location is the first in the US (soon to be expanded to other cities).  It is a joint partnership between Mario Batali and Lidia and Joe Bastianich.   Walking into Eataly my anticipation and expectations were quite high. I've read a lot about this cavernous market and avoided it up until now as it has been really chaotic & crowded since its opening.  Although it was busy, the market was easy to manage. There's over 50,000 square feet of space, with retail food, six restaurants, and of course Italian coffee waiting for you as you walk in. I was struck by how antiseptic the space seemed. It's like a tourist's conception of "Italy". Look, the food is good (and the prices high) but it's a "safe" version of Italy for those who like to be led by the hand and told what to buy. And led by the hand you are!  Product placements are everywhere. A huge Lavazza sign greats you at the coffee bar. I've got to wonder... how much did it cost that company for the sponsorship? It reminds me of Food Network cross marketing. In another section of the store you can buy any of Mario's numerous cookbooks.   House wine is, of course Bastianich winery.

What about the coffee? I ordered a cup and was served a dark, bitter roast that wouldn't have been so bad if it didn't have lots of grounds waiting for me at the bottom. I got a big mouthful and had to spit it out.

Everyman Espresso

[caption id="attachment_458" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Everyman Espresso[/caption]

During my coffee explorations I tried to visit Everyman Espresso on 13th Street only to find it closed for renovation. On may last day in the city, I struggled across Canal Street to get to the Holland Tunnel. Making a quick right turn up West Broadway, I suddenly saw Everyman's second location. Pulling over I ran in for a quick cup of Counter Culture. I found myself petting their beautiful Strada while the Barista pulled a perfect shot. although I was a bit beat-up at that point and the shop was filled with the perfectly coiffed guests from the Soho Grand right across the street, the staff couldn't be friendlier. It was the perfect ending of my brief Big Apple visit.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Doughnut Plant http://doughnutplant.com

I Am Coffee https://www.facebook.com/iamcoffeenyc

Eataly http://www.eataly.com

Everyman Espresso http://everymanespresso.com

Kobrick Coffee http://www.kobricks.com

Counter Culture http://counterculturecoffee.com

Coffee In Park Slope, Brooklyn

Park Slope is within the borough of Brooklyn and just few subway stops from Manhattan but if you live there, it feels like an oasis from the stress and fast pace of the urban living.  Lot's of young families call "The Slope" home amongst the brownstones and tree-lined streets.  The neighborhood abuts Prospect Park, a 600 acre park designed by Frederick Olmsted and Calvert Vaux  after they completed Manhattan's Central Park.


[caption id="attachment_419" align="aligncenter" width="560"] 7th Avenue Donut Shop[/caption]

Gentrification and high rents make it difficult to afford this enclave, but there are still signs of the old guard.  Not far from the F train resides 7th Avenue Donut Shop, a local favorite since 1977.  Here you can get coffee, oj, eggs, potatoes and toast all for only $3.75  Sure the coffee is lousy, but it's an honest meal for an honest price.

[caption id="attachment_418" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Crespella[/caption]

Directly across the street you'll find an example of the new Park Slope, Crespella slinging Stumptown and offering exquisite crepes.  It's a modern twist on the classic Italian espresso bar.

[caption id="attachment_415" align="aligncenter" width="392"] Cafe Grumpy[/caption]

A few blocks away resides Cafe Grumpy, a coffeehouse with five locations who roasts their own beans.  Here you'll get a sense of the Park Slope vibe, relaxed, warm and inviting.  Local artwork lines the wall.  There's a few seats for reading the paper and a bench outside.  The coffee is well executed.

[caption id="attachment_416" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Gorilla Coffee[/caption]

As I sat on the bench outside I decided to head down to 5th Avenue.  Back about 100 years ago when I lived in the Slope 5th Avenue and South was a no man's land.... Kind of dicey and not that safe.  Things have vastly changed.  There's an explosion of great clothing stores, restaurants and coffee shops with Gorilla Coffee right in the middle of this renaissance.

Gorilla's approach to coffee roasting is a bit different.  I sat with co-owner Carol McLaughlin and discussed her philosophy.  To Carol, roasting great coffee is not about establishing a specific house style (say a lighter vs darker roast) but rather understanding the individual lots and roasting that optimally expresses the beans.

[caption id="attachment_417" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Results from a barista challenge[/caption]

Barista training is extremely important so that there's optimal expression each time a cup is ordered.  Carol believes in constant training using in-house challenges as a learning tool.  Baristas go toe to toe preparing V60s or Chemex and then their results are voted on.  The goal is not only to decide who made the better cup but why and use it as a learning tool.  Senior baristas are expected to constantly train newer one.   It's also the reason Gorilla doesn't do wholesale accounts.  They feel quality control is too easily compromised.  While this is an unorthodox view, I do understand the argument.  There's been times when I've ordered from an independent who grinds a great roaster but they do it sub par.

During my two weeks revisiting old haunts in and around NYC, I discovered that as much as I love the energy of life in Manhattan, I prefer the calm laid-back attitude of The Slope.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

7th Avenue Donuts Luncheonette http://www.7thavenuedonutsanddiner.com

Crespella: http://crespellabk.com

Cafe Grumpy: http://cafegrumpy.com

Gorilla Coffee: http://gorillacoffee.com

Three Coffees In Williamsburg, Brooklyn

When I lived in New York a few decades ago, hardly anyone went to Williamsburg Brooklyn.  It wasn't that safe and only a few intrepid artists occupied cheap spaces in an otherwise desolate neighborhood.  Today, I don't even recognize the place.  Ultra modern apartment buildings are springing up everywhere and there's cool restaurants and coffeehouses on almost every block.  Lots of young, attractive hipsters with expensive tattoos walk the streets.  It's an exciting vibe but one that has become so trendy that  operators offer guided walking and bike tours of the 'hood to visitors from out-of-town looking for an authentic urban safari.

Rents in Williamsburg are not as high as Manhattan and the size of the coffeehouses reflect this.  My first stop was at Toby's Estate Coffee who I had contacted before my arrival.  I was invited to meet roaster Deaton Pigot and I took the opportunity to pepper him with questions.  Toby's home is located in what was once a meat provisioning house.   They opened their doors in 2012, creating a beautiful space.  3,000 square feet in all, 900 of it carefully designed and laid out to maximize the customer's experience.



The roasting philosophy is different that what you might experience if you ordered a Toby's in Australia where 90% of all coffee served is espresso done in the Italian style.... a dark and heavier roast.   Pigot told me that at Toby's Brooklyn, the goal is to let the beans fully express themselves and their lighter roast accentuates the fruit components of the beans.  Emphasis is on Direct Trade and Toby's has relationships in Colombia, Honduras with Panama on the way.  I tried an espresso made with the Ethiopia Sukie Quto, a perfect example of what this roaster strives for, bright fruity flavors with nice crisp acidity.  Next I was given a V60 of Coasta Rican Finca Salaca, bolder with interesting notes of cherries, earth and marmalade jam. 



As I sipped my second cup, I sat down with Toby's Coffee Educator Allie Caran to chat about the coffee industry in general, Toby's role within the Third Wave movement and the importance on demystifying the artisanal cup.  Allie's priority is sharing the philosophy of  great service that makes customers feel comfortable and at home in their shop and others they supply.   Allie feels that one of the most crucial aspects to moving the "Third Wave" industry forward is to present the coffeehouse as a place of welcoming education.  Why would you pay $5.00 or more for a cup of coffee if the barista makes you feel uncomfortable or intimidated?   Allie put it this way (I'm paraphrasing), "I've gone to a shop that has mediocre coffee made by a friendly barista over another shop who seemed put out."

I think that to love coffee as much as Allie and the rest of the staff you must have an inquisitive mind and an artist's soul.  They guys at Toby's exemplify both.

[caption id="attachment_402" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Sweetleaf[/caption]

My next stop was Sweetleaf, just a few blocks away.   Sweetleaf shares their open space with real estate broker Modern Spaces.  The decor is reclaimed wood, the main bar was made from antique doors.  Barista Justin poured me some Heartroaster's Ethiopia Chelba espresso from the constantly rotating roaster program.  Justin is the perfect example of what Allie and I were discussing earlier.  He is warm, down to earth and extremely helpful, greeting everyone with a warm smile and interesting suggestion.  After finishing my cup Justin recommended "Best Pizza" about eight blocks away, a fantastic New York style brick oven joint.

[caption id="attachment_403" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Parlor Coffee[/caption]

My final stop was perhaps the smallest coffee shop in the US, Parlor Coffee.  Located in the back of Persons Of Interest barbershop, only one customer at a time can comfortably fit.  Thus your forced to get to know the barista which in this case is not a bad thing at all.    It's kind of like visiting some sort of coffee confessional.  My Priest Barista was Brice, an interesting guy who's worked in some of the best coffeehouses in the city.  Parlor roasts their own at The Pully Collective, a new coffee-roasting plant on the Brooklyn waterfront that members rent out by the half-day (Joe and Ninth Street Espresso are part of this group as well), wholesaling to various shops around Brooklyn.  Their espresso is what I'd describe as a medium roast, carefully crafted and not overdone.

[caption id="attachment_398" align="aligncenter" width="392"] Street art, Kent Ave., Williamsburg[/caption]

Williamsburg has come a long way since I've called this city home.  The coffee culture is arguably even more forward thinking than Manhattan.  I plan on making this Borough a regular stop whenever I'm around.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Toby's Estate Coffee: http://tobysestate.com

Sweetleaf: http://www.sweetleaflic.com

Three Coffees In Manhattan

[caption id="attachment_392" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Two Little Red Hens[/caption]

To the first time visitor, the city of New York is large and difficult to manage.  But to a resident, NYC is a city made up of many smaller towns or neighborhoods each with its own character.  For example, on East 86th where I lived for two weeks fashion tights are the de rigueur uniform for young professional women headed to the store or one of the gyms that seem to populate every corner.  For men you can still find examples of what I thought was the finally extinct "WASP" look, polo shirts, docksiders, and chinos.    Even though I'd rather stay further downtown, I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.

There are some great gems in my temporary neighborhood, Luke's Lobster, Prime Butcher Baker, and Naruto Ramen are just a few.  Rent for businesses in the city is insane.  The linen store just next door to my apartment pays $10,000 per month for each window that faces the street.  With real estate at such a premium, throughout the city coffeehouses tend to be really tiny.  Just large enough to grab a cup to go with an interesting croissant, pastry or cupcake.  Two Little Red Hens is one such place just around the corner from my temporary home.

Many consider Two Little Red Hens' cupcakes and pies some of the best in the city. There's usually a line but it's worth the wait.  On my first visit I ordered a Key Lime Pie cupcake with a cup of Irving Farm coffee.  It was one of the best cupcakes I've ever had.  It was the perfect balance of tart lime with sweet icing... not too cloying, moist cake filled with lime custard.  The coffee is by Irving Farm, a roaster located north of the city in Millerton, Hudson Valley.

[caption id="attachment_443" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Irving Farm Coffee[/caption]

Going south a few miles, Union Square is a world apart from the Upper East Side.  The vibe is trendy without the hipster attitude of the East Village.  There's a fantastic farmer's market four days a weeks and over in the Southwest corner you can pick up a chess game for just a few bucks.  Just East of the park is Irving Place.  It's an upscale residential enclaive, a bit more quiet and quaint than Union Square.  Here at 71 Irving Place is the city home of Irving Farm Coffee Roasters founded in 1996 and now with four locations plus wholesale in many other places around the city.  Their house is a blend of Peru, Guatemala and El Salvadoran beans, each roasted separately then combined to form their signature house style, bold, rich and robust without being overroasted.

On East 13th Street David Chang's Momofuku Milk Bar offers up a taste of dessert and Stumptown coffee from an ever-expanding culinary empire (last count was 15 restaurants around the world).  My expectations were high as I've read so much about Chang, the "bad boy" of New York cuisine and watched him do guest stints on Treme, Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain.  I'm sad to report that my experience was underwhelming.  Although it was a quiet Monday just after 1 pm and the sign outside announced that "it's raining treats", the guy in front of me was told that they were out of their Kimchi Croissant a treat he went there specifically to try for the first time.  It sounded so interesting that I could help feeling his pain.  I ordered a "Crack Pie" with a well made Stumptown Hairbender espresso.  How could I resist such a promise?  Unfortunately, the taste was cloying and dense, and reminded me not so much a food crack then a not so interesting riff on Pecan Pie.  If you're looking for pastry "crack" try Doughnut Plant's mind-blowing offerings (at two locations, Lower East Side and Chelsea), which I'll blog about in a few weeks.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Two Little Red Hens: http://www.twolittleredhens.com

Irving Farm Coffee Roasters: http://www.irvingfarm.com

Momofuku Milk Bar: http://milkbarstore.com

Doughnut Plant: http://doughnutplant.com