Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts

Thursday, February 19, 2015

Winter Food In Philly and NYC

I am not the biggest fan of Winter.  I think my genetic disposition requires me to crave warm places, much like the rest of my people who tend to migrate during the cold months to places like Boca Raton Florida.  But for some reason food takes on a greater significance while I wait for Spring.  Here's some photographs from recent food excursions.

I. Philadelphia

George's Sandwich Shop, Italian Market
George's Sandwich Shop, Italian Market


Hummus Lunch At Dizengoff
Hummus Lunch At Dizengoff


Pizza At In Riva
Pizza At In Riva

Steet Vendor "Chicken & Rice"
Street Vendor "Chicken & Rice"


Shanghai Crabmeat & Pork Soup Dumplings, Dim Sum Garden
Shanghai Crabmeat & Pork Soup Dumplings, Dim Sum Garden




II. New York City


Le Grainne Cafe
Le Grainne Café



Lox At Zabar's, New York
Lox At Zabar's, New York

Links

CoffeeGuru features over 7,600 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK, Ireland and Paris. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

West Village Coffee Field Trip

Last week I spent a few hours in New York City's West Village.  The neighborhood is distinguished by streets that are "off the grid" — set at an angle to the other streets in Manhattan.  It's still Colonial in feel and very residential.  In my fantasies when I dream of moving back to the city my first choice is a brownstone in the West Village.  A few years ago while getting into my car I saw Gwyneth Paltrow exiting her home on one of these charming streets and the idea of her as one of my neighbors cemented my decision.


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 Street Fair, West Village


I only had time to check out two coffee shops, Prodigy Cafe and Whynot.  Prodigy is a great space for a quiet respite from the tourists clogging Bleeker Street just around the corner.

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About six months ago the two owners started roasting their own coffee in Brooklyn at the Pulley Collective and they do a great job.  They offer both their signature Brooklyn Blend as well as single origin selections.

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Just a few blocks away, Whynot Coffee and Wine on the corner of Gay and Christopher Streets is where the monied cool locals hang out.  Toby's estate is the house offering and the music is all vinyl. After 5 the coffee shop becomes a wine bar. Hang out here (make sure you dress the part...NYC cool) and you'll most likely rub elbows with a screenwriter, photographer or a local artist.

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Whynot


Dinner was spent in Chinatown...a bit of Szechuan followed by some bubble tea.

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Chinatown fish market



Links

CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Prodigy Coffee





Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Is There Decent Coffee In Grand Central Station?

When I was a photographer's assistant years ago, I was hired to take large format photographs of landmark buildings around 42nd Street in Manhattan.  One of my best images was of the main concourse inside Grand Central Terminal.  It was a beautiful photograph shot from above the floor where the Apple Store is now.  Beams of light were streaming in from the three large windows and onto the floor.  While I knew how to work a large format camera, I was far from proficient.  And yet the resulting image was one of the most beautiful architectural photographs I've ever produced.

Since I was hired to assist this photographer (she didn't know how to use a large format camera), I had to give her everything we developed.  I did sneak one 4X5 Polaroid that has long since been lost or misplaced.

Fast forward to a few days ago.  I had some free time while visiting New York City and thought that it would be interesting to do a coffee crawl inside Grand Central.  The range of options is much broader nowadays, including Joe Coffee, Irving Farm, Magnolia Bakery, and Financier Patisserie (Cafe Grumpy is also opening another store really soon).


NYC Subway
42nd Street Subway




Entering Grand Central Station
Entering Grand Central Station




Entering The Main Concourse
 Entering The Main Concourse



Going to Grand Central is like traveling through Kansas to the land of Oz. Upon entering the main concourse what struck me is the grand majesty and beauty of this monumental space.  When I lived in Manhattan the ceiling was dark and covered in dirt and grime.  A 12 year renovation completed in 1998 has restored it to its original splendor.  The concourse is extremely busy (it serves close to 2 million people monthly and is a huge tourist destination).



Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal
 Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal




The Concourse Floor
The Concourse Floor




While the coffee options have much improved since the old days of Dunkin Doughnuts, Grand Central is not a place to hang out with your friends and enjoy a great cup of craft coffee.  This is Joe Coffee's busiest shop and the line is almost continually snaking down the hall.  The baristas are very pleasant and obviously know what they are doing but the sheer volume that this and all the other coffee shops handle translates to a loss in quality.  In my opinion Joe makes the best coffee within Grand Central.  Irving Farm has an impressive setup including a pour-over bar, but the baristas could use a lot more training.  I ordered a Cortado and it lacked that careful interplay of milk and espresso and seemed imbalanced.  Both Financier and Magnolia did an ok job offering drip coffee, Financier roasts their own and Magnolia uses Peet's.

So is it worth a trip inside the terminal?  If you are nearby the answer is definitely yes!  The architecture of the space will blow you away.  The Terminal covers 48 acres and you can spend hours exploring its halls.  Check out the coffee inside for yourself or step outside for a multitude of other decent options.


Joe Coffee
Joe Coffee


Irving Farm Coffee
Irving Farm Coffee




CoffeeGuru features over 7,000 independent coffeehouses in the US, Canada, UK and Ireland. Download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8







Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Food Discoveries In NYC

Best Pizza




[caption id="attachment_420" align="aligncenter" width="392"]IMG_4677 "Best Pizza" Williamsburg, Brooklyn[/caption]

Want a fantastic slice of brick oven "Brooklyn style" pizza? Then head over to Havemeyer Street where two slices and a soda is all you'll need . The perfect ration of cheese, sauce and dough.

Naruto Ramen




[caption id="attachment_421" align="aligncenter" width="369"]Naruto Ramen Naruto Ramen[/caption]

The Upper East Side is notorious for overpriced and not so interesting food. That is until you dig a little deeper. Head over to Naruto Ramen on 3rd Ave between 89th and 90th, step inside and suddenly you're thousands of miles away in Japan. Just 14 seats, you might not get in right away but it's worth the wait.

Chinatown




[caption id="attachment_464" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Fruit Vendor selling Longan, Chinatown Fruit Vendor selling Longan, Chinatown[/caption]

While shopping around Chinatown, I discovered a fruit vendor selling this strange fruits. A few of my Twitter followers told me it's called a Longan which translates to "dragon eye". It tasts similar to a Lychee and was a rather nice discovery.

Economy Candy




[caption id="attachment_423" align="aligncenter" width="392"]IMG_4782 Economy Candy[/caption]

I've been to Dylan's Candy Bar quite a few times. When I stumbled upon Woodward Gallery, John the owner clued me into Economy Candy just down the block at 108 Rivington Street. This is the real deal. Not nearly as organized and much smaller than Dylan's, Economy has them beat on selections and price. After posting this photograph on Facebook, one of my neighbors commented "My girls' eyeballs would explode if they walk in there!"

Shake Shack




[caption id="attachment_422" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Shake Shack & Malbec Shake Shack & Malbec[/caption]

Finally, the Upper East Side has the hamburger heaven Shake Shack just a few doors from where I stayed for a few weeks. Sometimes you just want to settle in and have your own foodie experience at home. Nothing beats these hamburgers paired with a fabulous Malbec and enjoyed right in my temporary city courtyard.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Best Pizza http://best.piz.za.com

Naruto Ramen http://www.narutoterakawa.com/default1.aspx

Economy Candy http://www.economycandy.com

Shake Shack http://www.shakeshack.com/location/upper-east-side/



Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Great & Mediocre Coffee In NYC

Doughnut Plant




[caption id="attachment_435" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Doughnut Plant Doughnut Plant[/caption]

In Chris Rock's stand-up act, he calls Crispy Creme doughnuts "Kracky Kreme". If only he'd try Doughnut Plant's creations he would sing a different tune. These are the real deal. Addictive? You bet, when I wasn't there I thought about the next day when I'd return to taste another flavor. I tried Peach, Vanilla Bean and Coconut Lime Yeasts, Creme Brulee and Peaches & Cream filled Doughseeds. These remarkable creations are simply the best doughnuts I've ever tasted. My only regret? They didn't have the Rose Petal Doughseed on either day I visited. Coffee was also great, made by Kobrick, a local roaster that's been around since 1920.

[caption id="attachment_436" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Magic In A Doughnut Plant Box Magic In A Doughnut Plant Box[/caption]

I Am Coffee




[caption id="attachment_503" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Interior, I Am Coffee[/caption]

If you were standing in the middle of St Mark's Place, you'd never guess that one of the city's best coffee shops is just a few steps away. Look carefully. Right alongside the Ramen noodle joints and next door to Sing Sing Karaoke Lounge is a coffee destination unlike any other, I Am Coffee. Giovanni Finotto and Caterina Musajo hail from Crema, Italy and they concoct some of the most amazing coffee "cocktails" (sans alcohol).

[caption id="attachment_460" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Preparing My Shakerato Preparing My Shakerato[/caption]

Take the Shakerato that I ordered. Cateriana vigorously froths the drink in a cocktail shaker and serves it in a martini glass. This is not "Third Wave" but a different way of presenting coffee. There's twists on caffè freddo, Macchiato, and drinks of the day with fresh Ginger and other fabulous ingredients. The roast is from Bologna’s Manuel Terzi and is that darker Italian style. Sure there's the traditional drip and pour-over but the magical concoctions are what it's all about.

[caption id="attachment_459" align="aligncenter" width="448"]IMG_4871 The Shakerato[/caption]

A few weeks ago I stated that Parlor Coffee in Williamsburg may be the smallest coffee shop in the city. I Am Coffee is even smaller. Three customers is a crowd at this bar. Even though I'm not a Catholic, when approaching Cateriana with my order, I felt like I was entering a very intimate setting.... almost like a confessional. It's a one-on-one experience that every coffee lover should experience.

Eataly




[caption id="attachment_502" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_5139 The Flatiron Building[/caption]

The Flatiron Building is one of my favorites in NYC. But I'm sorry to say that not all things about the city is remarkable when it relates to coffee. Eataly by Mario Batalli just a stone's throw from this marvelous building is one of those unfortunate missteps.

[caption id="attachment_461" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Coffee At Eataly Coffee At Eataly[/caption]

Eataly is an Italian food market chain that started in Turin and is now in 11 locations in Italy and 6 additional venues in the United States and Japan.  The New York location is the first in the US (soon to be expanded to other cities).  It is a joint partnership between Mario Batali and Lidia and Joe Bastianich.   Walking into Eataly my anticipation and expectations were quite high. I've read a lot about this cavernous market and avoided it up until now as it has been really chaotic & crowded since its opening.  Although it was busy, the market was easy to manage. There's over 50,000 square feet of space, with retail food, six restaurants, and of course Italian coffee waiting for you as you walk in. I was struck by how antiseptic the space seemed. It's like a tourist's conception of "Italy". Look, the food is good (and the prices high) but it's a "safe" version of Italy for those who like to be led by the hand and told what to buy. And led by the hand you are!  Product placements are everywhere. A huge Lavazza sign greats you at the coffee bar. I've got to wonder... how much did it cost that company for the sponsorship? It reminds me of Food Network cross marketing. In another section of the store you can buy any of Mario's numerous cookbooks.   House wine is, of course Bastianich winery.

What about the coffee? I ordered a cup and was served a dark, bitter roast that wouldn't have been so bad if it didn't have lots of grounds waiting for me at the bottom. I got a big mouthful and had to spit it out.

Everyman Espresso




[caption id="attachment_458" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Everyman Espresso Everyman Espresso[/caption]

During my coffee explorations I tried to visit Everyman Espresso on 13th Street only to find it closed for renovation. On may last day in the city, I struggled across Canal Street to get to the Holland Tunnel. Making a quick right turn up West Broadway, I suddenly saw Everyman's second location. Pulling over I ran in for a quick cup of Counter Culture. I found myself petting their beautiful Strada while the Barista pulled a perfect shot. although I was a bit beat-up at that point and the shop was filled with the perfectly coiffed guests from the Soho Grand right across the street, the staff couldn't be friendlier. It was the perfect ending of my brief Big Apple visit.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Doughnut Plant http://doughnutplant.com

I Am Coffee https://www.facebook.com/iamcoffeenyc

Eataly http://www.eataly.com

Everyman Espresso http://everymanespresso.com

Kobrick Coffee http://www.kobricks.com

Counter Culture http://counterculturecoffee.com





















Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Coffee In Park Slope, Brooklyn

Park Slope is within the borough of Brooklyn and just few subway stops from Manhattan but if you live there, it feels like an oasis from the stress and fast pace of the urban living.  Lot's of young families call "The Slope" home amongst the brownstones and tree-lined streets.  The neighborhood abuts Prospect Park, a 600 acre park designed by Frederick Olmsted and Calvert Vaux  after they completed Manhattan's Central Park.


[caption id="attachment_419" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4725 7th Avenue Donut Shop[/caption]

Gentrification and high rents make it difficult to afford this enclave, but there are still signs of the old guard.  Not far from the F train resides 7th Avenue Donut Shop, a local favorite since 1977.  Here you can get coffee, oj, eggs, potatoes and toast all for only $3.75  Sure the coffee is lousy, but it's an honest meal for an honest price.

[caption id="attachment_418" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4727 Crespella[/caption]

Directly across the street you'll find an example of the new Park Slope, Crespella slinging Stumptown and offering exquisite crepes.  It's a modern twist on the classic Italian espresso bar.

[caption id="attachment_415" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Cafe Grumpy Cafe Grumpy[/caption]

A few blocks away resides Cafe Grumpy, a coffeehouse with five locations who roasts their own beans.  Here you'll get a sense of the Park Slope vibe, relaxed, warm and inviting.  Local artwork lines the wall.  There's a few seats for reading the paper and a bench outside.  The coffee is well executed.

[caption id="attachment_416" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4734 Gorilla Coffee[/caption]

As I sat on the bench outside I decided to head down to 5th Avenue.  Back about 100 years ago when I lived in the Slope 5th Avenue and South was a no man's land.... Kind of dicey and not that safe.  Things have vastly changed.  There's an explosion of great clothing stores, restaurants and coffee shops with Gorilla Coffee right in the middle of this renaissance.

Gorilla's approach to coffee roasting is a bit different.  I sat with co-owner Carol McLaughlin and discussed her philosophy.  To Carol, roasting great coffee is not about establishing a specific house style (say a lighter vs darker roast) but rather understanding the individual lots and roasting that optimally expresses the beans.

[caption id="attachment_417" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4732 Results from a barista challenge[/caption]

Barista training is extremely important so that there's optimal expression each time a cup is ordered.  Carol believes in constant training using in-house challenges as a learning tool.  Baristas go toe to toe preparing V60s or Chemex and then their results are voted on.  The goal is not only to decide who made the better cup but why and use it as a learning tool.  Senior baristas are expected to constantly train newer one.   It's also the reason Gorilla doesn't do wholesale accounts.  They feel quality control is too easily compromised.  While this is an unorthodox view, I do understand the argument.  There's been times when I've ordered from an independent who grinds a great roaster but they do it sub par.

During my two weeks revisiting old haunts in and around NYC, I discovered that as much as I love the energy of life in Manhattan, I prefer the calm laid-back attitude of The Slope.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

7th Avenue Donuts Luncheonette http://www.7thavenuedonutsanddiner.com

Crespella: http://crespellabk.com

Cafe Grumpy: http://cafegrumpy.com

Gorilla Coffee: http://gorillacoffee.com













Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Three Coffees In Williamsburg, Brooklyn

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When I lived in New York a few decades ago, hardly anyone went to Williamsburg Brooklyn.  It wasn't that safe and only a few intrepid artists occupied cheap spaces in an otherwise desolate neighborhood.  Today, I don't even recognize the place.  Ultra modern apartment buildings are springing up everywhere and there's cool restaurants and coffeehouses on almost every block.  Lots of young, attractive hipsters with expensive tattoos walk the streets.  It's an exciting vibe but one that has become so trendy that  operators offer guided walking and bike tours of the 'hood to visitors from out-of-town looking for an authentic urban safari.


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Rents in Williamsburg are not as high as Manhattan and the size of the coffeehouses reflect this.  My first stop was at Toby's Estate Coffee who I had contacted before my arrival.  I was invited to meet roaster Deaton Pigot and I took the opportunity to pepper him with questions.  Toby's home is located in what was once a meat provisioning house.   They opened their doors in 2012, creating a beautiful space.  3,000 square feet in all, 900 of it carefully designed and laid out to maximize the customer's experience.

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The roasting philosophy is different that what you might experience if you ordered a Toby's in Australia where 90% of all coffee served is espresso done in the Italian style.... a dark and heavier roast.   Pigot told me that at Toby's Brooklyn, the goal is to let the beans fully express themselves and their lighter roast accentuates the fruit components of the beans.  Emphasis is on Direct Trade and Toby's has relationships in Colombia, Honduras with Panama on the way.  I tried an espresso made with the Ethiopia Sukie Quto, a perfect example of what this roaster strives for, bright fruity flavors with nice crisp acidity.  Next I was given a V60 of Coasta Rican Finca Salaca, bolder with interesting notes of cherries, earth and marmalade jam. 

IMG_4694

As I sipped my second cup, I sat down with Toby's Coffee Educator Allie Caran to chat about the coffee industry in general, Toby's role within the Third Wave movement and the importance on demystifying the artisanal cup.  Allie's priority is sharing the philosophy of  great service that makes customers feel comfortable and at home in their shop and others they supply.   Allie feels that one of the most crucial aspects to moving the "Third Wave" industry forward is to present the coffeehouse as a place of welcoming education.  Why would you pay $5.00 or more for a cup of coffee if the barista makes you feel uncomfortable or intimidated?   Allie put it this way (I'm paraphrasing), "I've gone to a shop that has mediocre coffee made by a friendly barista over another shop who seemed put out."

I think that to love coffee as much as Allie and the rest of the staff you must have an inquisitive mind and an artist's soul.  They guys at Toby's exemplify both.

[caption id="attachment_402" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4669 Sweetleaf[/caption]

My next stop was Sweetleaf, just a few blocks away.   Sweetleaf shares their open space with real estate broker Modern Spaces.  The decor is reclaimed wood, the main bar was made from antique doors.  Barista Justin poured me some Heartroaster's Ethiopia Chelba espresso from the constantly rotating roaster program.  Justin is the perfect example of what Allie and I were discussing earlier.  He is warm, down to earth and extremely helpful, greeting everyone with a warm smile and interesting suggestion.  After finishing my cup Justin recommended "Best Pizza" about eight blocks away, a fantastic New York style brick oven joint.

[caption id="attachment_403" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4682 Parlor Coffee[/caption]

My final stop was perhaps the smallest coffee shop in the US, Parlor Coffee.  Located in the back of Persons Of Interest barbershop, only one customer at a time can comfortably fit.  Thus your forced to get to know the barista which in this case is not a bad thing at all.    It's kind of like visiting some sort of coffee confessional.  My Priest Barista was Brice, an interesting guy who's worked in some of the best coffeehouses in the city.  Parlor roasts their own at The Pully Collective, a new coffee-roasting plant on the Brooklyn waterfront that members rent out by the half-day (Joe and Ninth Street Espresso are part of this group as well), wholesaling to various shops around Brooklyn.  Their espresso is what I'd describe as a medium roast, carefully crafted and not overdone.

[caption id="attachment_398" align="aligncenter" width="392"]IMG_4810 Street art, Kent Ave., Williamsburg[/caption]

Williamsburg has come a long way since I've called this city home.  The coffee culture is arguably even more forward thinking than Manhattan.  I plan on making this Borough a regular stop whenever I'm around.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Toby's Estate Coffee: http://tobysestate.com

Sweetleaf: http://www.sweetleaflic.com









Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Three Coffees In Manhattan

[caption id="attachment_392" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Two Little Red Hens Two Little Red Hens[/caption]

To the first time visitor, the city of New York is large and difficult to manage.  But to a resident, NYC is a city made up of many smaller towns or neighborhoods each with its own character.  For example, on East 86th where I lived for two weeks fashion tights are the de rigueur uniform for young professional women headed to the store or one of the gyms that seem to populate every corner.  For men you can still find examples of what I thought was the finally extinct "WASP" look, polo shirts, docksiders, and chinos.    Even though I'd rather stay further downtown, I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.

There are some great gems in my temporary neighborhood, Luke's Lobster, Prime Butcher Baker, and Naruto Ramen are just a few.  Rent for businesses in the city is insane.  The linen store just next door to my apartment pays $10,000 per month for each window that faces the street.  With real estate at such a premium, throughout the city coffeehouses tend to be really tiny.  Just large enough to grab a cup to go with an interesting croissant, pastry or cupcake.  Two Little Red Hens is one such place just around the corner from my temporary home.

IMG_4620

Many consider Two Little Red Hens' cupcakes and pies some of the best in the city. There's usually a line but it's worth the wait.  On my first visit I ordered a Key Lime Pie cupcake with a cup of Irving Farm coffee.  It was one of the best cupcakes I've ever had.  It was the perfect balance of tart lime with sweet icing... not too cloying, moist cake filled with lime custard.  The coffee is by Irving Farm, a roaster located north of the city in Millerton, Hudson Valley.

[caption id="attachment_443" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Irving Farm Coffee Irving Farm Coffee[/caption]

Going south a few miles, Union Square is a world apart from the Upper East Side.  The vibe is trendy without the hipster attitude of the East Village.  There's a fantastic farmer's market four days a weeks and over in the Southwest corner you can pick up a chess game for just a few bucks.  Just East of the park is Irving Place.  It's an upscale residential enclaive, a bit more quiet and quaint than Union Square.  Here at 71 Irving Place is the city home of Irving Farm Coffee Roasters founded in 1996 and now with four locations plus wholesale in many other places around the city.  Their house is a blend of Peru, Guatemala and El Salvadoran beans, each roasted separately then combined to form their signature house style, bold, rich and robust without being overroasted.

IMG_4619

On East 13th Street David Chang's Momofuku Milk Bar offers up a taste of dessert and Stumptown coffee from an ever-expanding culinary empire (last count was 15 restaurants around the world).  My expectations were high as I've read so much about Chang, the "bad boy" of New York cuisine and watched him do guest stints on Treme, Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain.  I'm sad to report that my experience was underwhelming.  Although it was a quiet Monday just after 1 pm and the sign outside announced that "it's raining treats", the guy in front of me was told that they were out of their Kimchi Croissant a treat he went there specifically to try for the first time.  It sounded so interesting that I could help feeling his pain.  I ordered a "Crack Pie" with a well made Stumptown Hairbender espresso.  How could I resist such a promise?  Unfortunately, the taste was cloying and dense, and reminded me not so much a food crack then a not so interesting riff on Pecan Pie.  If you're looking for pastry "crack" try Doughnut Plant's mind-blowing offerings (at two locations, Lower East Side and Chelsea), which I'll blog about in a few weeks.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Two Little Red Hens: http://www.twolittleredhens.com

Irving Farm Coffee Roasters: http://www.irvingfarm.com

Momofuku Milk Bar: http://milkbarstore.com

Doughnut Plant: http://doughnutplant.com

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Astoria Coffee Part Two: Cupping Cafe Brioso's Beans

When Astoria Cafe's Dennis Lee sent me some beans from their Ohio roaster Cafe Brioso, I couldn't wait to check it out. Dennis and his girlfriend Liz hail from Columbus and moved to Queens, New York in 2009. Their dream is to open their own coffee shop in the neighborhood.

Elixr Coffee

After the beans arrived, I decided to contact Evan Inatome, owner of one of Philadelphia's best coffee houses, Elixr. He was all about cupping the beans and we arranged a tasting.

Cafe Brioso sent me a bag of their Colombia La Primavera Microlot and Evan thought it would be interesting to blind taste them against other roasters' offerings from the same country. The lineup contained,

IMG_3209

Toby's Estate's Santa Ines (cup A)

Heart's El Desarrollo (cup B)

Square Mile's La Buitrera Huila (cup C)

Cafe Brioso's La Primavera (cup D)

Four coffee professionals joined me in the cupping. Evan presented the coffees in cups labeled A-D so that we could check them out blind.

IMG_3213

So what was the consensus? Interestingly, our opinions were unanimous. The coffee in the first three cups were very sound. The lighter roast brought out interesting fruit and floral notes that wasn't as pronounced in Cafe Brioso's full city roast. But cupping them side by side brought out nuanced differences and Heart's El Desarrollo was the winner. Between the three, the La Buitrera Huila was just a hair past it's peak, perhaps because it was roasted a few weeks earlier and then shipped from the UK. With that said, Evan felt that any of them would make for excellent pour overs.

What about Cafe Brioso's offering? Although quite good and well crafted, the group felt it was a bit too assertive, perhaps because it seemed to be a darker roast than the other selections. It wasn't necessarily a bad thing and one of the group offered that it would probably be a really nice selection to use with milk based drinks such as cappuccinos.

The next day I tried the Brioso using my Aeropress with and without milk. I liked the strong, earthy tones and think the added lactose rounded out the flavors. It should make a nice house selection when Astoria eventually opens its doors.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here:https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8