Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Great & Mediocre Coffee In NYC

Doughnut Plant




[caption id="attachment_435" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Doughnut Plant Doughnut Plant[/caption]

In Chris Rock's stand-up act, he calls Crispy Creme doughnuts "Kracky Kreme". If only he'd try Doughnut Plant's creations he would sing a different tune. These are the real deal. Addictive? You bet, when I wasn't there I thought about the next day when I'd return to taste another flavor. I tried Peach, Vanilla Bean and Coconut Lime Yeasts, Creme Brulee and Peaches & Cream filled Doughseeds. These remarkable creations are simply the best doughnuts I've ever tasted. My only regret? They didn't have the Rose Petal Doughseed on either day I visited. Coffee was also great, made by Kobrick, a local roaster that's been around since 1920.

[caption id="attachment_436" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Magic In A Doughnut Plant Box Magic In A Doughnut Plant Box[/caption]

I Am Coffee




[caption id="attachment_503" align="aligncenter" width="560"] Interior, I Am Coffee[/caption]

If you were standing in the middle of St Mark's Place, you'd never guess that one of the city's best coffee shops is just a few steps away. Look carefully. Right alongside the Ramen noodle joints and next door to Sing Sing Karaoke Lounge is a coffee destination unlike any other, I Am Coffee. Giovanni Finotto and Caterina Musajo hail from Crema, Italy and they concoct some of the most amazing coffee "cocktails" (sans alcohol).

[caption id="attachment_460" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Preparing My Shakerato Preparing My Shakerato[/caption]

Take the Shakerato that I ordered. Cateriana vigorously froths the drink in a cocktail shaker and serves it in a martini glass. This is not "Third Wave" but a different way of presenting coffee. There's twists on caffè freddo, Macchiato, and drinks of the day with fresh Ginger and other fabulous ingredients. The roast is from Bologna’s Manuel Terzi and is that darker Italian style. Sure there's the traditional drip and pour-over but the magical concoctions are what it's all about.

[caption id="attachment_459" align="aligncenter" width="448"]IMG_4871 The Shakerato[/caption]

A few weeks ago I stated that Parlor Coffee in Williamsburg may be the smallest coffee shop in the city. I Am Coffee is even smaller. Three customers is a crowd at this bar. Even though I'm not a Catholic, when approaching Cateriana with my order, I felt like I was entering a very intimate setting.... almost like a confessional. It's a one-on-one experience that every coffee lover should experience.

Eataly




[caption id="attachment_502" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_5139 The Flatiron Building[/caption]

The Flatiron Building is one of my favorites in NYC. But I'm sorry to say that not all things about the city is remarkable when it relates to coffee. Eataly by Mario Batalli just a stone's throw from this marvelous building is one of those unfortunate missteps.

[caption id="attachment_461" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Coffee At Eataly Coffee At Eataly[/caption]

Eataly is an Italian food market chain that started in Turin and is now in 11 locations in Italy and 6 additional venues in the United States and Japan.  The New York location is the first in the US (soon to be expanded to other cities).  It is a joint partnership between Mario Batali and Lidia and Joe Bastianich.   Walking into Eataly my anticipation and expectations were quite high. I've read a lot about this cavernous market and avoided it up until now as it has been really chaotic & crowded since its opening.  Although it was busy, the market was easy to manage. There's over 50,000 square feet of space, with retail food, six restaurants, and of course Italian coffee waiting for you as you walk in. I was struck by how antiseptic the space seemed. It's like a tourist's conception of "Italy". Look, the food is good (and the prices high) but it's a "safe" version of Italy for those who like to be led by the hand and told what to buy. And led by the hand you are!  Product placements are everywhere. A huge Lavazza sign greats you at the coffee bar. I've got to wonder... how much did it cost that company for the sponsorship? It reminds me of Food Network cross marketing. In another section of the store you can buy any of Mario's numerous cookbooks.   House wine is, of course Bastianich winery.

What about the coffee? I ordered a cup and was served a dark, bitter roast that wouldn't have been so bad if it didn't have lots of grounds waiting for me at the bottom. I got a big mouthful and had to spit it out.

Everyman Espresso




[caption id="attachment_458" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Everyman Espresso Everyman Espresso[/caption]

During my coffee explorations I tried to visit Everyman Espresso on 13th Street only to find it closed for renovation. On may last day in the city, I struggled across Canal Street to get to the Holland Tunnel. Making a quick right turn up West Broadway, I suddenly saw Everyman's second location. Pulling over I ran in for a quick cup of Counter Culture. I found myself petting their beautiful Strada while the Barista pulled a perfect shot. although I was a bit beat-up at that point and the shop was filled with the perfectly coiffed guests from the Soho Grand right across the street, the staff couldn't be friendlier. It was the perfect ending of my brief Big Apple visit.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Doughnut Plant http://doughnutplant.com

I Am Coffee https://www.facebook.com/iamcoffeenyc

Eataly http://www.eataly.com

Everyman Espresso http://everymanespresso.com

Kobrick Coffee http://www.kobricks.com

Counter Culture http://counterculturecoffee.com





















Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Coffee In Park Slope, Brooklyn

Park Slope is within the borough of Brooklyn and just few subway stops from Manhattan but if you live there, it feels like an oasis from the stress and fast pace of the urban living.  Lot's of young families call "The Slope" home amongst the brownstones and tree-lined streets.  The neighborhood abuts Prospect Park, a 600 acre park designed by Frederick Olmsted and Calvert Vaux  after they completed Manhattan's Central Park.


[caption id="attachment_419" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4725 7th Avenue Donut Shop[/caption]

Gentrification and high rents make it difficult to afford this enclave, but there are still signs of the old guard.  Not far from the F train resides 7th Avenue Donut Shop, a local favorite since 1977.  Here you can get coffee, oj, eggs, potatoes and toast all for only $3.75  Sure the coffee is lousy, but it's an honest meal for an honest price.

[caption id="attachment_418" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4727 Crespella[/caption]

Directly across the street you'll find an example of the new Park Slope, Crespella slinging Stumptown and offering exquisite crepes.  It's a modern twist on the classic Italian espresso bar.

[caption id="attachment_415" align="aligncenter" width="392"]Cafe Grumpy Cafe Grumpy[/caption]

A few blocks away resides Cafe Grumpy, a coffeehouse with five locations who roasts their own beans.  Here you'll get a sense of the Park Slope vibe, relaxed, warm and inviting.  Local artwork lines the wall.  There's a few seats for reading the paper and a bench outside.  The coffee is well executed.

[caption id="attachment_416" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4734 Gorilla Coffee[/caption]

As I sat on the bench outside I decided to head down to 5th Avenue.  Back about 100 years ago when I lived in the Slope 5th Avenue and South was a no man's land.... Kind of dicey and not that safe.  Things have vastly changed.  There's an explosion of great clothing stores, restaurants and coffee shops with Gorilla Coffee right in the middle of this renaissance.

Gorilla's approach to coffee roasting is a bit different.  I sat with co-owner Carol McLaughlin and discussed her philosophy.  To Carol, roasting great coffee is not about establishing a specific house style (say a lighter vs darker roast) but rather understanding the individual lots and roasting that optimally expresses the beans.

[caption id="attachment_417" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4732 Results from a barista challenge[/caption]

Barista training is extremely important so that there's optimal expression each time a cup is ordered.  Carol believes in constant training using in-house challenges as a learning tool.  Baristas go toe to toe preparing V60s or Chemex and then their results are voted on.  The goal is not only to decide who made the better cup but why and use it as a learning tool.  Senior baristas are expected to constantly train newer one.   It's also the reason Gorilla doesn't do wholesale accounts.  They feel quality control is too easily compromised.  While this is an unorthodox view, I do understand the argument.  There's been times when I've ordered from an independent who grinds a great roaster but they do it sub par.

During my two weeks revisiting old haunts in and around NYC, I discovered that as much as I love the energy of life in Manhattan, I prefer the calm laid-back attitude of The Slope.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

7th Avenue Donuts Luncheonette http://www.7thavenuedonutsanddiner.com

Crespella: http://crespellabk.com

Cafe Grumpy: http://cafegrumpy.com

Gorilla Coffee: http://gorillacoffee.com













Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Three Coffees In Williamsburg, Brooklyn

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When I lived in New York a few decades ago, hardly anyone went to Williamsburg Brooklyn.  It wasn't that safe and only a few intrepid artists occupied cheap spaces in an otherwise desolate neighborhood.  Today, I don't even recognize the place.  Ultra modern apartment buildings are springing up everywhere and there's cool restaurants and coffeehouses on almost every block.  Lots of young, attractive hipsters with expensive tattoos walk the streets.  It's an exciting vibe but one that has become so trendy that  operators offer guided walking and bike tours of the 'hood to visitors from out-of-town looking for an authentic urban safari.


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Rents in Williamsburg are not as high as Manhattan and the size of the coffeehouses reflect this.  My first stop was at Toby's Estate Coffee who I had contacted before my arrival.  I was invited to meet roaster Deaton Pigot and I took the opportunity to pepper him with questions.  Toby's home is located in what was once a meat provisioning house.   They opened their doors in 2012, creating a beautiful space.  3,000 square feet in all, 900 of it carefully designed and laid out to maximize the customer's experience.

IMG_4696

The roasting philosophy is different that what you might experience if you ordered a Toby's in Australia where 90% of all coffee served is espresso done in the Italian style.... a dark and heavier roast.   Pigot told me that at Toby's Brooklyn, the goal is to let the beans fully express themselves and their lighter roast accentuates the fruit components of the beans.  Emphasis is on Direct Trade and Toby's has relationships in Colombia, Honduras with Panama on the way.  I tried an espresso made with the Ethiopia Sukie Quto, a perfect example of what this roaster strives for, bright fruity flavors with nice crisp acidity.  Next I was given a V60 of Coasta Rican Finca Salaca, bolder with interesting notes of cherries, earth and marmalade jam. 

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As I sipped my second cup, I sat down with Toby's Coffee Educator Allie Caran to chat about the coffee industry in general, Toby's role within the Third Wave movement and the importance on demystifying the artisanal cup.  Allie's priority is sharing the philosophy of  great service that makes customers feel comfortable and at home in their shop and others they supply.   Allie feels that one of the most crucial aspects to moving the "Third Wave" industry forward is to present the coffeehouse as a place of welcoming education.  Why would you pay $5.00 or more for a cup of coffee if the barista makes you feel uncomfortable or intimidated?   Allie put it this way (I'm paraphrasing), "I've gone to a shop that has mediocre coffee made by a friendly barista over another shop who seemed put out."

I think that to love coffee as much as Allie and the rest of the staff you must have an inquisitive mind and an artist's soul.  They guys at Toby's exemplify both.

[caption id="attachment_402" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4669 Sweetleaf[/caption]

My next stop was Sweetleaf, just a few blocks away.   Sweetleaf shares their open space with real estate broker Modern Spaces.  The decor is reclaimed wood, the main bar was made from antique doors.  Barista Justin poured me some Heartroaster's Ethiopia Chelba espresso from the constantly rotating roaster program.  Justin is the perfect example of what Allie and I were discussing earlier.  He is warm, down to earth and extremely helpful, greeting everyone with a warm smile and interesting suggestion.  After finishing my cup Justin recommended "Best Pizza" about eight blocks away, a fantastic New York style brick oven joint.

[caption id="attachment_403" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4682 Parlor Coffee[/caption]

My final stop was perhaps the smallest coffee shop in the US, Parlor Coffee.  Located in the back of Persons Of Interest barbershop, only one customer at a time can comfortably fit.  Thus your forced to get to know the barista which in this case is not a bad thing at all.    It's kind of like visiting some sort of coffee confessional.  My Priest Barista was Brice, an interesting guy who's worked in some of the best coffeehouses in the city.  Parlor roasts their own at The Pully Collective, a new coffee-roasting plant on the Brooklyn waterfront that members rent out by the half-day (Joe and Ninth Street Espresso are part of this group as well), wholesaling to various shops around Brooklyn.  Their espresso is what I'd describe as a medium roast, carefully crafted and not overdone.

[caption id="attachment_398" align="aligncenter" width="392"]IMG_4810 Street art, Kent Ave., Williamsburg[/caption]

Williamsburg has come a long way since I've called this city home.  The coffee culture is arguably even more forward thinking than Manhattan.  I plan on making this Borough a regular stop whenever I'm around.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Toby's Estate Coffee: http://tobysestate.com

Sweetleaf: http://www.sweetleaflic.com









Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Three Coffees In Manhattan

[caption id="attachment_392" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Two Little Red Hens Two Little Red Hens[/caption]

To the first time visitor, the city of New York is large and difficult to manage.  But to a resident, NYC is a city made up of many smaller towns or neighborhoods each with its own character.  For example, on East 86th where I lived for two weeks fashion tights are the de rigueur uniform for young professional women headed to the store or one of the gyms that seem to populate every corner.  For men you can still find examples of what I thought was the finally extinct "WASP" look, polo shirts, docksiders, and chinos.    Even though I'd rather stay further downtown, I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.

There are some great gems in my temporary neighborhood, Luke's Lobster, Prime Butcher Baker, and Naruto Ramen are just a few.  Rent for businesses in the city is insane.  The linen store just next door to my apartment pays $10,000 per month for each window that faces the street.  With real estate at such a premium, throughout the city coffeehouses tend to be really tiny.  Just large enough to grab a cup to go with an interesting croissant, pastry or cupcake.  Two Little Red Hens is one such place just around the corner from my temporary home.

IMG_4620

Many consider Two Little Red Hens' cupcakes and pies some of the best in the city. There's usually a line but it's worth the wait.  On my first visit I ordered a Key Lime Pie cupcake with a cup of Irving Farm coffee.  It was one of the best cupcakes I've ever had.  It was the perfect balance of tart lime with sweet icing... not too cloying, moist cake filled with lime custard.  The coffee is by Irving Farm, a roaster located north of the city in Millerton, Hudson Valley.

[caption id="attachment_443" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Irving Farm Coffee Irving Farm Coffee[/caption]

Going south a few miles, Union Square is a world apart from the Upper East Side.  The vibe is trendy without the hipster attitude of the East Village.  There's a fantastic farmer's market four days a weeks and over in the Southwest corner you can pick up a chess game for just a few bucks.  Just East of the park is Irving Place.  It's an upscale residential enclaive, a bit more quiet and quaint than Union Square.  Here at 71 Irving Place is the city home of Irving Farm Coffee Roasters founded in 1996 and now with four locations plus wholesale in many other places around the city.  Their house is a blend of Peru, Guatemala and El Salvadoran beans, each roasted separately then combined to form their signature house style, bold, rich and robust without being overroasted.

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On East 13th Street David Chang's Momofuku Milk Bar offers up a taste of dessert and Stumptown coffee from an ever-expanding culinary empire (last count was 15 restaurants around the world).  My expectations were high as I've read so much about Chang, the "bad boy" of New York cuisine and watched him do guest stints on Treme, Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain.  I'm sad to report that my experience was underwhelming.  Although it was a quiet Monday just after 1 pm and the sign outside announced that "it's raining treats", the guy in front of me was told that they were out of their Kimchi Croissant a treat he went there specifically to try for the first time.  It sounded so interesting that I could help feeling his pain.  I ordered a "Crack Pie" with a well made Stumptown Hairbender espresso.  How could I resist such a promise?  Unfortunately, the taste was cloying and dense, and reminded me not so much a food crack then a not so interesting riff on Pecan Pie.  If you're looking for pastry "crack" try Doughnut Plant's mind-blowing offerings (at two locations, Lower East Side and Chelsea), which I'll blog about in a few weeks.

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

Two Little Red Hens: http://www.twolittleredhens.com

Irving Farm Coffee Roasters: http://www.irvingfarm.com

Momofuku Milk Bar: http://milkbarstore.com

Doughnut Plant: http://doughnutplant.com

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Coffee Research

CoffeeGuru is off this week exploring New York's coffee scene.  Be back next week with a new blog post!




[caption id="attachment_367" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4424 Green Line Coffee, Philadelphia[/caption]




[caption id="attachment_368" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4429 Rittenhouse Coffee built in 1855 abandoned in the 90s[/caption]

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Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Two Beautiful Coffeehouses In Philadelphia

 

[caption id="attachment_338" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Bodhi Coffee Bodhi Coffee[/caption]

Amongst all the great coffeehouses in Philadelphia that are raising the bar presenting coffee as a artisanal craft, there are two wonderful standouts.  The first takes you back in time and the second has an incredible eye for interior design and detail.

The first coffeehouse in America was opened in 1676 by John Sparry in Boston.  The homes and businesses along South 2nd street in Old City Philadelphia are not much older.  Every time I walk past Bodhi coffee I feel like I've been taken back in time to that early colonial time.  Just standing outside I could almost imagine what the city looked like almost 250 years ago.  The brickwork of the building housing Bodhi is an excellent example of the Flemish style of Colonial bricklaying, with its alternating long and short bricks in the same row so prevalent in many of these buildings.  The facade is beautifully preserved, a testament to the highly skilled craftsmen who built these structures.

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Bodhi opened in 2010 and is a small but comfortable space.  They use both Stumptown and PT's, both excellent roasters.  I had a cup of the Southpaw espresso which was wonderfully sweet balanced with a nice acidity.  I wonder if this is the oldest building to house a coffeehouse in the US?

[caption id="attachment_341" align="aligncenter" width="448"]IMG_4373 One Shot Coffee[/caption]

In 2011, Melissa and Rebecca Baruno expanded One Shot Cafe to their new location in Philadelphia's Northern Liberties.  One Shot's original space opened in 2005 and was one of the first businesses in what is now a very trendy neighborhood.   The two completely gutted what was once a bar and created a space that harks back to an earlier time.

[caption id="attachment_345" align="aligncenter" width="392"]IMG_4369 Interior, One Shot Cafe[/caption]

From the tin ceilings to the old the industrial antiques throughout the space, and even their vintage airplane logo, there is an incredible eye for detail and design that is remarkably cohesive.  While I sipped the house blend crafted especially for the cafe by Stumptown Roasters, I wandered throughout the building.




[caption id="attachment_346" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_4379 Upstairs, One Shot Cafe[/caption]

Upstairs is relaxed and a bit quieter, with a nice lounge in the back.  I can almost imagine that there's a story behind everything.  Like a Joseph Cornell box, carefully juxtaposing objects seemed to tell stories everywhere I turned.


Over the last few years Philadelphia has become one of the best cities in the US for Third Wave coffee.  Set aside a few days for your coffee crawl and include both Bodhi and One Shot at the very top of your list.


Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8


http://bodhicoffeephila.com


http://1shotcoffee.wordpress.com


http://stumptowncoffee.com


http://www.ptscoffee.com





Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Madison: A Midwestern Oasis

I love Chicago.  In my opinion it's one of the United States' great cities on par with New York, Los Angeles or San Francisco.  There's the exciting arts scene, great architecture, fantastic and diverse food and really nice people with Mid-Western values.  And yet like most major cities, Chicago can take a lot out of you.



[caption id="attachment_266" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3845 Lakefront, Madison[/caption]

The chance to spend July 4th in Madison, Wisconsin was a welcome respite.  I was invited to stay at a house right on Lake Monona.  My host owns a small boat and offered to take me on a tour of the canal and through the locks to Lake Mendota where we could watch the fireworks.  The canal ride was one of the coolest experiences I've ever experienced.  Madison had received a lot of rain and the water was high.  We went under a number of bridges, ducking our heads under some.  Bats flew around our heads, and baby swallows scrutinized us.  The lock from one lake to the other was a wild ride.  There's a six-foot difference between the two lakes and the lock itself is quite small, only four boats at a time can fit.

Madison is one of the most liberal cities in the United States.  The vast majority of coffeehouses use Fair Trade beans.  I was surprised to discover that there are only a few grinding Direct Trade.  I was told that Bradbury's and Johnson Public House are the two standouts, with a decent guest roaster program and talented baristas.




[caption id="attachment_265" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3829 Bradbury's[/caption]

Bradbury's was my first stop.  It's located on the ground floor of a residential building and takes up a corner.  It's shaped like a triangle.  When you walk in there's a counter where you order and the rest of the space is taken up by seating.  There are windows on all three sides to sit and enjoy the view.  The service was a bit spotty.  There were two baristas who didn't seem all that happy to serve us which I chalked up to the fact that business was really slow due to the holiday.  I was told the only selection offered that day was from Kickapoo coffee out of Viroqua, Wisconsin.  I tried to discuss the selections but didn't get much information.  When I asked about the bag of Anodyne (Milwaukee, WI) next to the brew bar, I was told it was a sample bag.... no further discussion or offer to sample.  Maddeningly, after I ordered a $3.5 pour-over, they prepared it in the rear of the store (a function of the store's layout) and I couldn't watch the process.  However on a positive note, the coffee was prepared well and I really enjoyed the roast.

[caption id="attachment_268" align="aligncenter" width="448"]IMG_3866 Pre-weighted selections at Johnson Public House[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_310" align="aligncenter" width="448"]IMG_3971 Selection board, Johnson Public House[/caption]

The next morning I woke up early and headed out to grab some coffee from Johnson Public House.  I got there just as they were opening.  I was immediately greeted by the two baristas setting up.  The vibe is mellow and really comfortable.  Behind the counter on the back wall were four sheets of metal and small magnetized jars containing that day's pre-weighted selections. Their house grind is Intelligentsia and, after perusing their selection board, I ordered a Kochere from Ceremony Coffee out of Annapolis, MD.  While they prepared my brew, we had a nice discussion about the Ceremony's roasting program, especially their small lots made with wine and bourbon barrels.  I can't wait to go back the next time I'm in town.

[caption id="attachment_267" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3868 Hanging out at Johnson Public House[/caption]

Just before heading home, I grabbed some breakfast at Daisy Cafe & Cupcakery, serving Johnson Brothers Coffee roasted right in Madison.  A popular local destination, the food was hearty, the service friendly and the coffee quite enjoyable.  It was the perfect ending to a great and relaxing visit.

[caption id="attachment_315" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3850 Daisy Cafe & Cupcakery[/caption]

Support CoffeeGuru download the app here: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/coffeeguru-indie-coffeehouses/id547969523?mt=8

http://www.bradburyscoffee.com

http://johnsonpublichouse.com

http://www.daisycafeandcupcakery.com

http://ceremonycoffee.com

http://www.kickapoocoffee.com

http://www.johnsonbrotherscoffee.com







Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Chicago: Local Roasters Set The Bar

[caption id="attachment_281" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3598 Threatening sky over Ohio[/caption]

It's a fourteen hour drive to Chicago. Usually it's quite monotonous and uneventful but Summer storms made it a bit more challenging. At one point we had to pull over as the sky seemed to be preparing to chase us with a funnel cloud. Fortunately, we made it through the driving rain and wind in one piece.

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Summer in Chicago creates that perfect city.... full of culture and great restaurants, a killer lake front and friendly people with Mid-Western values. My visit was mostly visiting family which left little time for coffee exploration. And yet even though I hardly scratched the surface, I had some great coffee experiences. My various tastings revolved around local roasters... each shop I visited gave me a chance to try a different local selection. I came away with a new-found admiration for these artisanal producers and the city that inspires them.


-Overflow Coffee Bar

Brandon and Amanda Neely's coffee shop business model is not your typical for profit enterprise. They believe in giving profits back to the community for non-profit activities and promote fair-labor and enviornmentally-friendly practices. The Neelys are extremely welcoming and gracious coffee hosts. Their coffee comes from Coffee Ambassadors (Ipsento), who pay at least 25% over fair-trade minimums. The coffee was pleasant enough, I had a drip from Honduras that had nice fruit undertones. The shop is located in the South Loop, an area of the city that is rapidly developing but with only a few coffee options, making Overflow an oasis for travelers and locals alike.

[caption id="attachment_261" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3728 Overflow Coffee[/caption]

-Passion House

[caption id="attachment_260" align="aligncenter" width="336"]IMG_3632 Raspberries at Evanston Farmers' Market[/caption]

On Saturday I went to the Evanston Farmers' Market. While quite pricy, the produce was gorgeous. Local Michigan cherries, Portobello mushrooms, amazing tomatoes line the farmers' booths. Tucked away in a corner, Passion House Roaster and Green Buyer Shannon Steele-Knuckles was serving fresh coffee. I bought a cup but didn't introduce myself (I was with family). I regretted not doing so and later messaged them on Twitter offering my apologies. Shannon immediately invited me to their Tuesday cupping. I jumped at the offer.

[caption id="attachment_262" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3752 Cupping at Passion House Roasters[/caption]

Passion House is a small operation. There are only four employees, Shannon, Joshua, Brian and John. I arrived just after 9:00 am to find all four gathered around a small table setting up six different roasts. As soon as I arrived the cupping began. After going through the steps, dry smell, breaking the crust and tasting, I was asked to start each round of discussion as I was the week's guest taster. I was quite nervous about vocalizing my impressions. Truth be told it was my third cupping and didn't feel qualified to lead-off the discussions. I had little to fear. Not only did my years of experience tasting wine assist in my evaluations, but my hosts were very kind and helpful. We went through selections from Ethiopia, Brazil, and El Salvador, as well as a selection for Four Barrel out of San Francisco. These guys are very serious about what they do and honest in their assessments. It really clarified the art and passion that goes into making the best roast possible so that the coffee's expression sings in the cup. Just before I left I was given a bottle of their wonderful iced Brasil, Cambara Estate. Now if they only had a t-shirt my bling bag would have been complete. :)

[caption id="attachment_263" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3838 Wormhole Coffee[/caption]

-Wormhole Coffee

Wormhole is tiny and dark.... imagine hanging out in a friend's basement (with windows). There's a small bar with a few stools to watch the baristas work their magic. Some tables and comfortable sofas and chairs populate the rest of the space. As soon as you walk in you are greeted by a friendly barista happily curating the great house selections made by their own house roasted "Halfwit" as well as a rotating guest roaster program. After asking me a few questions, the barista recommended the Halfwit Mexican "Santa Teresa" using a V 60 pour over to extract the best brew possible. What a fine brew it was! I can't stress enough how at home the baristas made me feel. They obviously love what they do and their passion for coffee is infectious. I was told by a number of coffee buddies that Wormhole is one of the best in Chicago and, in my opinion, their advice is spot on.

-Brothers K Coffeehouse

[caption id="attachment_271" align="aligncenter" width="560"]IMG_3881 Brothers K Coffeehouse[/caption]

Although Brothers K isn't technically in Chicago, the city of Evanston is right basically an extension of the metropolis. Ironically, they serve local roaster Metropolis as their house pour. Brothers K is a nice coffeehouse and a local favorite, located right there on Main Street. During the warmer weather (yes Chicago has quite a few of those days), it's a great destination to sit and people watch or just chill after buying some cool stuff at Dave's Rock Shop a few blocks away. This is arguably the best destination for a really good cup in a small town that doesn't have a lot of choices.

Next Week: Madison, Wisconsin


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Overflow Coffee: http://overflowcoffeebar.org

Coffee Ambassadors: http://www.coffeeambassadors.com

Passion House Coffee Roasters: http://passionhousecoffee.com

Half Wit Coffee Roasters: http://www.halfwitcoffee.com

Wormhole Coffee: http://www.thewormhole.us

Brothers K Coffeehouse: http://www.brotherskcoffee.com

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

A Tale Of Two Yirgacheffe

Back in the day you went to South Philly for two reasons.... Down 9th Street to grab a hoagie from Sarcone's or a cheesesteak from either Pat's or Geno's. Want a coffee? Thirty years ago your best option was to grab one from a local deli.

[caption id="attachment_212" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Joey Joe's, Philadelphia Joey Joe's, Philadelphia[/caption]

Historically, South Philly has been dominated by old-school Italian Americans. For the last decade, cheap real estate has also attracted an influx of Vietnamese immigrants and hipster art students. A sure sign the neighborhood is well on its way to becoming über cool, Ultimo Coffee has become ground zero for these new inhabitants.... the perfect third wave destination and meeting place.

Back in April The Daily Meal anointed Ultimo as the number 1 coffee shop in America. Does it live up to its title? Personally I think these rankings are akin to reading in People Magazine who's the sexiest man alive, at the end of the day it's meaningless. Ignoring they hype, I went into the heart of South Philly to check Ultimo out.

[caption id="attachment_214" align="aligncenter" width="225"]Pour Over Bar, Ultimo Coffee Pour Over Bar, Ultimo Coffee[/caption]

Down the block from Scotty's Bar and just around the corner from Joey Joe's, Aaron and Elizabeth Ultimo opened their first location in 2009 and their second in 2012. In the South Philly location they share their space with a craft beer shop. The vibe is quite different from the surrounding 'hood. Ultimo takes their coffees seriously, using filtered water and a Marzocco GB5 carefully dialed in to the selections of the day, all from their roaster, Counter Culture. I selected the Banko Gotiti, Yirgacheffe as a pour over on their Beehouse drip bar. It was perfectly prepared and had really interesting citrus and tart apple notes. As I sat and enjoyed my cup a steady stream of customers kept things hopping.

[caption id="attachment_210" align="aligncenter" width="560"]Entrance, Greenstreet Coffee Entrance, Greenstreet Coffee[/caption]

Once finished I decided to drive up to another coffee shop, the recently opened Greenstreet Coffee Co. This shop represents another trend in the Philly coffee scene, serious in-house roasting. Brothers Tom and Chris Molieri started their roastery in 2011 and soon gained a reputation for producing well crafted beans. So in February when they were presented a chance to take over a former coffee shop, they dived in with both feet.

Greenstreet


I really like their space. Small and architecturally quirky, it has a cool vibe, a welcome feel that's quite popular with the locals. It's a bit more laid back than Ultimo and the enthusiastic staff is very welcoming. This is the kind of place I could spend a lazy afternoon. And the coffee? The Molieri brothers know how to roast and do it well. In their shop I was offered a choice of four selections, two from Ethiopia and one from El Salvador and Mexico. I was interested in comparing my experiences so I ordered the pour over Kochere Yirgacheffe, and was impressed by what I was served. The Greenstreet selection was a bit brighter than the Counter Culture version and the citrus flavors really shined in the cup.

All in all Philadelphia's Third Wave coffee scene has something for everyone. Whether you are looking for a craft cup of coffee roasting by some of the most well-known in the US or you seek some great local roasts, you can find it in this vibrant city.

A word about the next blog post: I'll be on vacation for a few weeks so things will be a bit quiet. But never fear, there's more to come once I return.

Vacation


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Greenstreet Coffee Roasters: http://greenstreetcoffee.com


Ultimo Coffee: http://ultimocoffee.com


The Daily Meal: www.thedailymeal.com


Counter Culture: http://counterculturecoffee.com